A Day In Todos Santos


For the past few days I could feel myself on the verge of getting sick and yesterday I think my body finally gave in. I woke up with a sore throat, headache, and runny nose. Carol made me waffles for breakfast and after I ate I went back to my room and watched two movies, read my book, and napped. I emerged around 4 to find something eat, then went back to my book, finishing it around 10 pm. Then went to bed. (It was Light on Snow, Mom, since I know you’re wondering).

This morning, though, I woke up feeling much better – probably because I spent yesterday horizontal. After breakfast I decided to catch a bus to the small town of Todos Santon south and west of La Paz. I’d never been there, but heard it was a cute little artsy town. The ride was about an hour and a half in a nice coach with James Bond Casino Royale blasting (both visually and audibly) on the TV.

After I got dropped off I went in search of a map. Procuring one, I then tried to get lost. One of my favorite things to do in a new town or city is to try to get lost, then figure my way back to familiar ground (if I have a map – it’s not too much fun getting really lost). I passed a nice looking hotel in the historic area and glanced at it’s name. Guaycura Hotel and Spa. Perfect. I’ve been wanting a massage since I got off the boat, so I made a sharp turn and entered the lobby. Asking if I could make a massage appointment, the receptionist made a few calls told me it would be half an hour, but I could wait up on the sky deck. I climbed two flights of stairs and emerged at the sky deck, an outside sitting area with an L-shaped pool, a bar, and long benches padded with cushions and pillows. Not a bad place to wait. It was about 45 minutes before the therapist was ready and I could enter the ‘spa’. The spa was actually a large room with two massage tables made up nicely, a steam room, a bathroom, and a two-person jacuzzi. I had my massage (which felt wonderful), then my therapist asked if I wanted to use the hot tub. I said yes, of course, and spent another 20 minutes soaking in the hot water with the jets tickling my toes and colored lights turning the water green, red, and blue.

Back on the street I moseyed from one artesian shop to another. There are some great artists here, selling pottery, jewelry, paintings, clothes, you name it. I ended up buying a necklace from a hippy girl selling her work on the sidewalk. It was more expensive than I wanted to pay, but we chatted for awhile and I felt like I had to buy it. It’s neat, with beads from the Amazon and a small shark tooth woven in above a brown and white shell.

After I walked around for awhile (I determined it was way too small of a town to get lost in) I consulted my map and headed to a place called Pura Vida, located a little farther off the main drag. The ad on my map said “Organic Health Food Store and Deli” (as well as a hotel) and not having eaten since breakfast that’s all I needed to know. I found it with no trouble and after perusing the shelves of bagged spices, raw honey, coconut oil, natural peanut butter, etc… I felt a tug towards home. The last time I saw good, healthy food like that was in October! I ordered a veggie panini with pesto and when it came it was piled high with shredded beets, carrots, and organic greens. Yummy!

And thats where I still am. My bus back to La Paz doesn’t leave until 6, so I have some time to relax and enjoy the last bit of sun!

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One Response

  1. Sounds wonderful and just what I need! Laying in bed with pneumonia, all that warmth and color you have down there is my major envy. Glad to hear you are feeling better though. Did you enjoy that book? I’m reading a really excellent novel called The Likeness by Tana French. It’s the second in the series…I think you read the first one, In The Woods. Anyway, miss you. One more month to go!

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