A Ferry Ride To Remember


In a last minute decision this morning, I decided to chop off my hair. It was getting way too long and unmanageable, so after detoxing in the steam room (which was working this time) and soaking in the hot tub, I made an appointment at the salon for a haircut. Karen helped me flip though magazines and books and we picked out a few cuts I liked. But in the end I basically told the hairdresser that I wanted my hair cut short and left it up to her. After a hour in the chair (which was exactly the amount of time I had – more on that later) I was done. It looks really good – or so I think and so Karen says – and it feels great to have short hair. I remember I cut it way back in high school and didn’t love it so much. I just need to figure out how to hold it back for yoga and other things.

But that was this morning. Right now I’m sitting in the lounge of the Mazatlan Star, listening to Spanish soap operas, and waiting for us to set sail (metaphorically) for La Paz – pretty much a straight shot across the Sea of Cortez. Although not horrible, the Mazatlan Star is a far cry from the manicured lawns and spouting fountains of Pueblo Bonito. It’s a ferry that shuttles across passengers as well as tractor trailers laden with goods headed for the Baja peninsula. I’m the only white girl (actually the only white person) on board and did I mention that it’s a 14 hour journey?

How I got here… Minutes after I had my new haircut (I was signing the hair salon slip on my way out of the glass front doors), Karen, Conrad (a guy from Oregon we met in the hot tub a few days ago. Karen persuaded him to come to the ferry terminal with us in case she needed help finding her way back to the hotel since she was losing her primary navigator), and I were in the car and heading for the ferry. Outside the terminal we said a bittersweet goodbye (no tears, thankfully) and I shouldered my backpack and headed off to meet my ferry – once again traveling on my own. Thanks, Karen, for such a great two weeks!

Back in Baja

So that last bit was written last night on the ferry and now I’m sitting in my favorite restaurant in La Paz, very hungry, very thirsty, and very tired. Here’s how my night went. I was going to forgo getting a cabin to sleep in and hunker down in the lounge instead, but after about 15 minutes of being stared at by the huge Mexican truck drivers, I decided it would be safer (and more comfortable) to get a cabin of my own. It was actually quite nice. My room had three beds, a desk, a sink, and a closet. Unfortunately no toilet. So in order to minimize trips to bathroom during the night, I didn’t drink as much water a I would have wanted. I also didn’t sleep very well. The man in the cabin next to me snored so loud he woke himself up a couple of times. But after banging on the wall with my elbow a few times I think he switched beds because I didn’t hear him any more. I read my book for awhile, ate my grapefruit and almonds for dinner (the only food I brought) and turned out the light. The trip wasn’t bad at all. A little rough in the middle of the night, but nothing worse than what I’m used to. I woke up at 3:30 (not sure why) and dozed until 7 when I got up. I didn’t step off the ferry until 10:30 because they had to unload all the tractor trailers first. Then I hopped in a mini-bus taxi and sped off to La Paz where the Sea Bird was waiting for me in the harbor! First, though, I had to find some food and coffee. So here I sit at La Boheme, my favorite restaurant in town, enjoying the open-aired courtyard, a vegetarian omelet, and an Americano. It’s good to be back in Baja!

If you’re interested in taking the ferry from the mainland to Baja or vice verse, this blog explains it well. I would recommend getting a cabin and bringing food!

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2 Responses

  1. Oh, my two beautiful women…the loves of my life! I love your hair Becky! Send more pics!

  2. Two incredible weeks! FUN! FUN! Thank you for everything Becky! Wish I was back in the sun…There is so much SNOWWWWW here…UGH. Will post my pictures soon..you do the same! Love and miss you!

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